4pcs For 2004-2010 BMW 5 Sieres Front Outer Tie Rod Links Sway Bars Kit

Tie-Rod End

The tie-rod assemblies connect the center link to the steering arms, which are bolted to the front steering knuckles. In some front suspensions, the steering arms are part of the steering knuckle; in other front suspension systems, the steering arms are bolted to the knuckle. A ball socket is mounted on the inner end to each tie-rod, and a tapered stud on this socket is mounted in a center link opening. A castellated nut and cotter pin retain the tie-rods to the center link. A threaded sleeve is mounted on the outer end of each tie-rod, and a tie-rod end is threaded into the outer end of this sleeve.

Outer Tie-Rod End

Some outer tie-rod ends have a ball stud that is surrounded by an upper hardened steel bearing and a high-strength polymer lower bearing seat. The hardened steel upper bearing provides strength and durability, and the polymer lower bearing seat provides smooth rotation of the ball stud in the tie-rod end. An internal spring between the polymer lower bearing seat supplies self-adjusting action and constant tension on this seat. A seal in the upper part of the ball joint housing seals the ball stud to prevent contaminants from entering the tie-rod end. These tie-rod ends are installed on some original equipment manufacturer’s vehicles, and they are available as replacement tie-rod ends on most vehicles.

Inner Tie-Rod End

Some inner tie-rod ends contain a bolt and bushing. These tie-rod ends are threaded onto the rack. Since the rack is connected directly to the tie-rods, the rack replaces the center link in a parallelogram steering linkage.

Some inner tie-rod ends have a mirror-finished ball and a high-strength polymer bearing to ensure low torque, minimal friction, and extended life. A hardened alloy steel rod extends from the ball to the outer tie-rod end and provides maximum strength and durability.

Sway Bar

Sway bars transmit torsional forces occurring between the body and the chassis to the stabilizer of the particular axle. Depending on the design of the front or rear axle, they form the necessary connection for optimal interplay between wheel guidance and stabilizer. The body roll of the vehicle during cornering is minimized, ensuring safe roadholding.

Some control arm bushings can be replaced with the arm still on the vehicle; others require removal of the arm. On a few applications, control arm bushings are threaded into the control arm, but most are press fitted.

Press fitted bushings can be removed and installed with a bushing driver. Some may be removed with an air chisel, and some may be pressed into the arm with the retaining nut. This method can require periodic vibration of the control arm to coax the bushing into place.

Care must be used in bushing replacement to avoid damage to the control arm. To properly position the bushing, the weight of the vehicle must be on the suspension before tightening the nut on most designs. Check the service information for the vehicle for the proper procedure.

Replacement of other types of suspension bushings is generally straightforward. Consult the service information.

While driving, the following signs may indicate a faulty sway bar stabilizer link

(1).Rattling and thumping noises on rough roads.

(2).Imprecise vehicle handling.

(3).Stronger inclination of the vehicle during cornering.

If the sway bar stabilizer link is found to be defective, it should be replaced as described below.

Picture(A)

1.Raise vehicle and remove front wheels.

Tip:Always check both stabilizer links and replace them in pairs if necessary.

2.Spray fastening nuts of the stabilizer link with rust remover and let act for a few minutes.

Picture(B)

3.Loosen the lower fastening nut of the stabilizer link at the stabilizer and remove.

Tip:If the ball stud also starts to turn, hold it with a suitable tool.

4.Press stabilizer link out of torsion bar.

Picture(C)

5.Loosen the upper fastening nut of the stabilizer link at the suspension strut and remove it.

Tip:If the ball stud also starts to turn, hold it with a suitable tool.

Picture(D)

6.Press stabilizer link at suspension strut out of bracket.

Picture(E)

7.Insert new stabilizer link at suspension strut.

Picture(F)

8.Tighten stabilizer link at suspension strut to the tightening torque specified by the vehicle manufacturer.

Tip:Secure the ball stud against twisting with a suitable tool.

Picture(G)

9.Insert new stabilizer link at stabilizer.

10.Tighten stabilizer link at stabilizer to the tightening torque specified by the vehicle manufacturer.

Tip:Secure the ball stud against twisting with a suitable tool.

Picture(H)

11.Remount the front wheels. Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel studs to the tightening torque specified by the vehicle manufacturer.

Tip:Even if replacing the stabilizer link does not directly affect the chassis setting, we recommend checking the axle setting and adjusting if necessary after working on the suspension.

12.Conclude with a test drive.

Note

Cleanliness is extremely important when working on the power steering. Incorrect work and contamination can lead to leakage and, in the worst case, to failure of the steering assistance.

1.Lift the vehicle and dismount the front axle wheels.

2.Spray the fastening nut of the tie rod end with rust remover and leave it on for a few minutes.

Picture(B)

3.Dismount the front underride guard.

Picture(C)

4.Loosen the fastening nut from the tie rod and remove it completely.

5.Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using an appropriate ball joint separator.

Picture(D)

6.Remove the clamp of the bellow on the steering gear.

7.Push the bellow towards the tie rod end.

Picture(E)

8.Unscrew the inner tie rod from the rack.

9.Clean the sealing face of the bellow at the steering gear.

Picture(F)

10.Clean the lug of the rubber contact surface of the ball joint in the steering knuckle.

Always use new self-locking nuts and bolts for a reliable repair.

11.Screw the new inner tie rod into the rack and tighten it with the tightening torque that has been specified by the vehicle manufacturer.

Picture(G)

12.Mount the bellow and close the clamps with the appropriate special tool.

Incorrect mounting of the bellow can lead to corrosion of the rack: the steering gear starts leaking which can lead to a failure in the steering assistance.

Picture(H)

13.Secure the ball joint in the steering knuckle and mount the nut. Please observe the tightening torque suggested by the vehicle manufacturer.

During mounting, the ball stud should not turn within the ball joint. This can cause damage inside the ball joint and can lead to early failure.

Tip:Secure the ball stud against twisting with a suitable tool.

Picture(I)

14.Mount the front underride guard.

15.Mount the front wheels and tighten them with the tightening torque recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.

16.Align the wheels and adjust them if necessary. Observe the vehicle manufacturer specifications.

17.Perform a test drive.

When performing the test drive, pay special attention to the handling while cornering and listen for possible noise emission.

Frequently Asked Questions

(1).When to replace tie rod ends?

Tie rods can last for years and years and some car owners may never have to replace them at all, but their longevity can be affected by certain driving conditions. Driving obstacles like potholes, poor road conditions or even minor accidents can cause tie rods to work incorrectly. Because of their importance and high usage, some people recommend having the tie rods inspected regularly.

(2).Why should I get my tie rods inspected on a regular basis?

If you don't get your tie rods inspected on a regular basis, there are some warning signs to watch (and listen) for. If your vehicle pulls to one side while driving, or when braking, it's possible that bad tie rods may be the culprit. Your vehicle's tires will also show uneven wear on the inside and outside edge of the tire when there's a tire rod issue. However, one of the most noticeable signs of tie rods going bad will be a knocking sound coming from the front end of the vehicle when you turn into a parking space, or some other low speed, tight turning situation.

(3).Vibrations

One of the first symptoms that your tie rods are damaged or breaking is that the steering wheel will vibrate slightly. This is especially prevalent when you are speeding up or turning. This happens because the steering wheel is losing its control over the tires, causing the steering wheel to shimmy as you drive.

(4).Shaking

As the tie rods become further damaged, you will start to notice that the car itself will start to shake. This happens because the tires may start to wobble without you having full control over them. Although you should take your car into a mechanic at the first sign of tie rod problems, if you experience your car shaking you could be at risk for serious tie rod damage-which can cause accidents. Take your car into a mechanic if you experience this tie rod symptom.

(5).Wandering

If your tie rods continue to go unchecked or unfixed, the rods can completely break. This can cause you to lose all control of your car, possibly resulting in an accident. When this occurs, the car will may "wander" as you drive. At this point, the steering wheel will have no control over the tires and the tires will start moving independently, causing the car to drift while you are driving. If this happens while you are on a freeway or busy road, you and others could be at serious risk of an accident. If you experience wandering, stop your car, call a two truck and take your car to the nearest mechanic.

(6).What is sway bar?

An sway bar (anti-sway bar, anti-roll bar, stabilizer bar) is a part of many automobile suspensions that helps reduce the body roll of a vehicle during fast cornering or over road irregularities. It connects opposite (left/right) wheels together through short lever arms linked by a torsion spring. A sway bar increases the suspension's roll stiffness-its resistance to roll in turns, independent of its spring rate in the vertical direction.

(7).What are the symptoms of a bad sway bar?

Some of the common symptoms of a bad sway bar bushing or sway bar links going bad are: clunking noise, rattling noise, knocking uneven noise road, lack of stability when driving and noise going over speed bumps. poor handling during turns.

(8).What happens when a stabilizer bar breaks?

Because a sway bar helps the car's suspension to put more pressure on loaded springs, a broken sway bar means that the car's suspension will not be able to handle corners as well or as quickly. While it is possible to drive with a broken sway bar, as a precaution do not take corners with excessive speeds.

(9).What is the most important tip to offer to help with anti-sway bar installation?

The most important thing is to ensure is that your wheels are not hanging. The suspension should be compressed so the control arms, etc. are at the same position they would be if the vehicle were sitting at ride height. This can be done by using ramps, a drive on lift, or simply loading the wheels if the vehicle is on jack stands or a two point lift. If this is not done the arc that the bar and suspension moves through due to the excessive travel can make things very difficult to line up.

(10).How long will it take to replace the front sway bar?

The front sway bar is a little more difficult than the rear sway bar install. But it isn't very hard at all. The only reason it takes longer is because you have to remove a couple of trays, so it still won't be a problem. If you are performing this upgrade yourself and you have the proper tools then this job shouldn't take more than 1-1/2 hours.